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Rana Plaza: A Heartbreaking Anniversary and the Unfinished Battle for Ethical Fashion

Ten years have passed since the devastating collapse of Rana Plaza on April 24, 2013. Time may have dried up the tears, but the haunting memory of that fateful day still lingers, sending shivers down our spines. Over 1,100 innocent lives were lost beneath the rubble, while another 2,000 individuals sustained injuries ranging from minor to life-altering. Many survivors were left unable to work for the rest of their lives. This horrifying incident undoubtedly ranks among the deadliest structural collapse in history.

The situation in Bangladesh often follows a troubling pattern of neglecting safety concerns until a tragedy occurs, as was the case with the Rana Plaza disaster. Rana Plaza, an eight-story commercial building in Dhaka, housed five garment factories producing clothing for major brands worldwide, including the U.S., UK, Spain, Italy, Germany, and Denmark.

An investigation into the collapse revealed that the building was constructed illegally and did not meet the required safety standards. The upper floors lacked permits and the weight of heavy equipment and machinery used in the factories contributed to the building’s structural failure. Despite warnings about the appearance of cracks in the walls, the building’s owners ignored them and forced workers to continue working, endangering their lives.

The Rana Plaza garment factories collapse in Bangladesh was a preventable disaster caused by a combination of engineering and administrative failures. According to experts, the tragic incident could have been avoided altogether.

The construction of parts of the building was carried out without proper permits from the city authorities, while the fifth through eighth floors were added without adequate columns. The weight and vibration of the heavy equipment from the garment factories exceeded the building’s capacity, and the foundation was weak, built on swampy land. As a result, the building was inevitably bound to collapse due to deepening cracks.

However, it was the failure to respond to known dangers that resulted in the loss of lives and injuries. Despite the discovery of cracks, the garment workers were coerced into returning to the building, while the bank and shops located on the lower levels remained evacuated due to the identified risks. The garment factory management was aware of the dangers, yet factory interests in meeting orders came before the safety of workers.

This disaster raises serious ethical concerns and highlights the darker side of humanity. It is disheartening to see that workers in garment factories in Bangladesh lost their lives due to the insatiable greed of their factory owners and the international brands they worked for.

It is troubling that the garment factories serve wealthy countries while the workers were poor. These workers were forced to work in unsafe and inhumane conditions without proper safety equipment or proper training. They were made to work long hours for meager wages, with no benefits or job security.

Despite the inhumane working conditions, the factory owners and international brands continued to prioritize profits over human lives. This is not only a violation of ethical values but also a breach of basic human rights. It is disappointing that international brands, which claim to be socially responsible, have been exploiting workers in developing countries for their benefit.

The Rana Plaza disaster serves as a stark reminder that the fashion industry needs to be held accountable for its actions, and there needs to be a conscious effort to prioritize workers’ safety and well-being over profits. The European brands that had billion-dollar businesses in Bangladesh were put under tremendous pressure by human rights organizations to take action. These brands prioritized their profits over the safety and well-being of the cheap Bangladeshi workers who worked in their factories. The global community of human rights organizations raised their voice against the exploitative practices of these blood-sucking brands.

Faced with the prospect of losing their lucrative businesses in Bangladesh, the brands were left with no choice but to form the Accord. The formation of this agreement was an attempt to ensure the safety of their money-making industry in Bangladesh. A program was formed by GIZ and IndustriALL, resulting in the Accord’s issuance in May 2013. H&M’s announcement of intent to sign encouraged other companies to join. Over 200 brands, retailers, and importers from over 20 countries have since signed the Accord. Unfortunately, it took such a tragedy for these brands to recognize the importance of prioritizing workers’ safety and well-being.

Some big stores in North America, like Gap and Walmart, didn’t sign the Accord because they were scared of being sued. American courts allow groups of people to sue companies (called class actions), and don’t make the loser pay the winner’s legal fees. This means the stores might have to pay a lot of money if something bad happened in a factory. European courts don’t allow class actions, don’t let people be paid for winning a lawsuit (called contingent fees), and make the loser pay the winner’s legal fees.

To show that they were doing something, a group of 17 big stores in North America made the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety and talked about the Bangladesh Worker Safety Initiative. But people who care about workers said it wasn’t as good as the Accord and didn’t make strong promises to pay for changes in factories. Though it is better to have something than to have nothing.

After the implementation of the Accord and Alliance in Fire, Electrical, and Structural Safety programs, trained engineers regularly inspect the garment factories covered under the Accord and Alliance to ensure safe working conditions. This inspection ensures that the factories are operating within the required safety parameters and that they are adhering to the safety regulations. As a result of these measures, the number of accidents in garment factories has reduced significantly.

In 2018, the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety ceased its operations, raising questions about whether the industry is committed to making the factories safe. This move by the Alliance has left many wondering if the international brands and the owners of the garment factories, represented by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), are truly committed to ensuring the safety of the workers. The Accord, on the other hand, was extended until 2020.

“There is a common misconception that the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety simply ceased operations at the end of 2018 and left Bangladesh. That was not the case. The Alliance handed over to Nirapon what was the next phase of the program. By the end of 2018, the Alliance had closed the corrective action plan (CAP) on around 450 factories. That success, rather than being the end of the program was in fact the beginning of the next phase. Closing the CAP took the factories to a ‘start line’ of safety.”- the website of Nirapon says. However, not many practical actions have been observed in the factories covered by the Alliance or Nirapon. It seems like they are just doing paperwork. In Bangladesh, where paperwork is involved, there is a chance of bribery for personal benefit. The author confirmed this after speaking with several operations, production, and compliance managers in the RMG sector.

After June 2020, the Accord was replaced by the RMG Sustainability Council (RSC), which currently oversees more than 1700 factories. Unlike the three departments of the Accord (fire, electrical, and structural), the RSC has added a new department dedicated to boiler safety. This department was established following a deadly boiler accident in 2017 that claimed 13 lives. As previously mentioned, in Bangladesh, no action is taken until after a fatal accident occurs. Although the RSC is attempting to maintain the continuity of the Accord’s actions, it is often difficult due to various administrative pressures from the BGMEA, garment owners, or the brands themselves.

So, we have around 2000 RMG factories that are inspected by RSC and Nirupan, which is just a little less than half of the factories in the country, according to BGMEA. That means the rest of the factories are unprotected. It’s not surprising that there is a gap here. Compliance factories and brands have a clever trick up their sleeves. They know that compliance factories cost more than non-compliance factories, so they subcontract or outsource a significant portion of their orders to the non-compliance factories. This is an open secret that everyone knows. It’s just a matter of time before another devastating accident happens, and then they will probably initiate another program like the Accord. Seleucus!

The Rana Plaza disaster can serve as a valuable lesson for all of us. The initiatives like the Accord and Alliance can be implemented in other industries throughout the country. It’s shameful that we have not expanded these programs and, in fact, we are attempting to limit the current initiatives established after the Rana Plaza tragedy. Due to this negligence, various industries continue to experience frequent accidents, resulting in the loss of innocent lives. No one seems to care about these poor souls. It’s time for policymakers to take action and prevent another Rana Plaza from happening again. Can we expect factory owners, brands, and the government to take responsibility? Today marks the tenth anniversary of this tragedy.

MD IMRAN HOSSAIN
MD IMRAN HOSSAINhttps://themetropolisnews.com/
Md. Imran Hossain, a certified SEO Fundamental, Google Analytics, and Google Ads Specialist from Bangladesh, has over five years of experience in WordPress website design, SEO, social media marketing, content creation, and YouTube SEO, with a YouTube channel with 20K subscribers.

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